Cusco

Set in a high Andean valley at around 3,400 metres, Cusco was the political and religious centre of the Inca Empire. When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, they built churches, convents and mansions directly on top of Inca foundations, and the result is a city where both worlds are visible on almost every street. Its historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Plaza de Armas, framed by the Cathedral and the Church of La Compañía, is the natural starting point. Nearby, the Qorikancha, once the most important Inca temple, now sits beneath the Santo Domingo convent, its curved stone walls still intact. In the San Blas quarter, steep lanes lead to artisan workshops and viewpoints over terracotta rooftops, and along Hatun Rumiyoc street you can see the famous twelve-angled stone fitted perfectly into an Inca wall. The San Pedro market offers a lively glimpse of daily life, with stalls of tropical fruit, Andean potatoes and local cheeses.

Just above the city, the massive zigzag walls of Sacsayhuamán are among the most impressive examples of Inca engineering. Smaller sites such as Q’enqo, Puka Pukara and Tambomachay can be combined in a half-day visit. Further afield, the Sacred Valley offers the market and terraces of Pisac, the circular terraces of Moray, the salt pans of Maras and the living Inca town of Ollantaytambo, which is also a departure point for trains to Machu Picchu.

Cusco’s altitude means it is worth arriving with a relaxed first day. Many travellers start in the Sacred Valley, which lies lower, and move up to Cusco afterwards. Consult your doctor or a travel clinic before travelling for personal advice on altitude. In June, the Inti Raymi festival, a re-enactment of the Inca celebration of the sun, draws large crowds, so book early if you plan to visit then.

Best months: May, June, July, August, September

Recommended stay: 3–4 nights, plus 1–2 in the Sacred Valley